Honda CT90 Engine Reassembly

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I have one 1971 CT90 where I was going to rebuild the clutch because the kickstarter just wasn't turning over the engine like it used too,  and I also had a Big Bore kit from DrATV that I wanted to install. My intent was to just do the top end and rebuild the clutch with new disks, but when I opened up the cases to rebuild the clutch pack I found a slick black slime in the bottom of the case.  I didn't like the idea that there could be black slime in the rest of the engine, so I decided to disassemble the entire engine to make sure I cleaned everything out.  Since I was tearing everything apart I thought I would document step by step how everything goes back together in this post in case others were interested in knowing what the inner workings of a CT90 engine look like. Links to Related Posts: My Honda CT90 Clutch and Headset Nut Tool Cut Away of a CT90 Engine - CT90 Engine Exposed! Repairing Damaged CT90 Spark Plug Threads Using a Time-Sert Thread Insert CT90 Cl...

Shift Drum Stopper Replacement When Doing a Clutch Rebuild

I recently learned about a CT90 failure mode that was new to me of a part called the Shift Drum Stopper that is part of your shift mechanism in your CT90.  I'm also finding that this isn't a failure mode that is all that uncommon and from now on I'm am considering replacing the shift drum stopper whenever I rebuild a clutch on one of my CT90's.  While this approach may be overkill, the part is cheap and its an easy replacement when your in doing your clutch, so I think it is well worthwhile.

I recently rebuilt my clutch on my 1975 CT90 and after I put everything back together I took the bike out for a spin in the neighborhood and the bike wouldn't shift correctly, so I pulled the cover off and started poking around.  Nothing jumped out at me as being out of place, so I started surfing the web and came across several postings related to poor shifting and something called the "Shift Drum Stopper".  I went back and looked at my bike and low and behold the roller on the end of my shift drum stopper had broken off.

The picture below shows the new shift drum stopper installed next to the broken part that I removed.




My initial approach to fix my bike was to see if I could salvage a part from a few motors I had picked up off of craigslist for parts (3 motors for $40.00, which I thought was a great deal), so I went and pulled the cover off of one of the motors to salvage a shift drum stopper and found that it was also broken as was the other motor I checked (the third motor was not that complete). So I had struck out trying to salvage one and was going to have to find one online.  It also started to sink in that maybe this problem isn't all that rare.



The purpose of the shift drum stopper is to correctly position the gear shift drum each time you shift.  It accomplishes this by being spring loaded which forces a roller at the end of the arm on the shift drum stopper to engage a plate with a number of lobes and detents (called the drum stopper plate).  Each time you shift you cause the drum with the plate to rotate and the roller rides over the lobe and then settles into the next detent which correctly positions the gear shift drum.  At neutral and forth gear, the drum stopper plate has a feature that hooks the roller on the shift drum stopper and prevents any further travel of the gear shift drum.

The shift drum stopper is located on the clutch side of the engine towards the upper rear of the housing and is hidden behind the primary gear.  In the picture below you can see the bolt that holds the shift drum stopper on at about the ten o'clock position on the primary gear.


After you have removed your clutch to rebuild it, all you have to do to get access to the shift drum stopper is to remove the external retaining ring on the shaft at the center of the primary gear and then just slide the primary gear off the shaft.


With the primary gear removed it only takes a minute to unbolt and replace the shift drum stopper. You need to remember to make sure to hook the spring on the lower part of the arm of the shift drum stopper so it will be preloaded against the drum stopper plate.


When you are in doing this along with a rebuild of your clutch this is a very simple part replacement and could save you a lot of grief if your shift drum stopper failed when you were a long ways from home.

The latest Honda part number for the shift drum stopper is 24430-943-010 and is good for years 1966 thru 1979. I was able to pick one up off of eBay for $16.00 delivered to my front door, so this is really a low cost addition when you're doing your clutch rebuild and I think is one of the best preventive maintenance items you can do.

Update as of 8/16/17
After I made my initial post on Facebook someone shared that they also check to make sure the screw that holds on the drum stopper plate is tight and also suggested that the screw be removed, cleaned and then reinstalled with Loctite to make sure it doesn't come loose, which I think is a great suggestion and something I plan on doing in the future.

Helpful Links (Shop Manuals, Wire Diagram, Model Information, etc.)

Link to page with listing of CT90 parts available on Amazon

Comments

  1. Was doing an oil change on my barn find 1975 CT90 and decided to clean the screen and oil well in clutch, after removing the right side case cover I found a small metal part in bottom of the case. I did an inspection and couldn't find anything that looked broken or incomplete so put it back together and all seemed ok. A few days later I read your article and recognized the part I found as the roller at the end of the stopper arm so I pulled it apart again and sure enough the very end of the arm was broken and the roller had dropped out. I haven't rode the bike yet but I'm sure I would have noticed something was wrong as soon as I did. Thank you for taking the time to write a very informative article that probably saved me many hours of frustration trying to trouble shoot shifting problems.

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  2. Thanks Brian and I am glad to hear the article helped you out and have fun with your 1975 CT90!

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  3. Hello, I hope that you are doing good. I have this newer honda bike with almost the same parts as yours and I have this thing that I hope you can enlighten me through your years of experience on how the gearshift arm is hitting the case. I uploaded a video in youtube so that people can help me understand why this is happening. Thank you sir. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wuiexUeOcE

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  4. I have an st90 which is a similar engine to the ct90. My shift drum stopper popped out and the bolt is tight. Any ideas?

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